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Wood 101

The ideas behind the wood guide, in plain language. Read this once and every wood page will make sense.

  1. What the hardness number means
  2. Reading the bars and dots
  3. The two finishes
  4. Why wood changes color
  5. Shimmer
  6. Open grain
  7. Safe for food?
  8. Pairings
  9. Weight and cost
  10. Caring for your piece

What the hardness number means

Hardness is measured with a dent test called the Janka test. A machine presses a small steel ball, a little smaller than a marble, into a board until half the ball has sunk in. The Janka number is how many pounds of push that took. A bigger number means a harder wood, and a harder wood gets fewer dents.

Think of pressing your thumb into fruit: a ripe banana gives way, an apple pushes back. Wood behaves the same way. On a harder wood, dropped keys, chair legs, pet claws and knife cuts leave smaller marks. Harder isn’t automatically better, though: very hard woods are tough on knives, and softer woods are perfectly good for things that don’t get knocked around, like boxes, picture frames and drawer linings.

Soft pine shelf board
380
Hobby hand carving
Spanish cedar
600
A fingernail can dent it
Black cherry
950
Classic furniture wood
Red oak
1,220
The usual yardstick for wood floors
Hard maple
1,450
Cutting boards, butcher blocks, bowling alleys
Purpleheart
2,520
Very hard; tough on knives
Macassar ebony
3,220
The hardest wood in this guide
01,0002,0003,0004,000 pounds

Reading the bars and dots

Next to hardness and weight, five small bars show where each wood sits, from one bar (softest or lightest) to five bars (hardest or heaviest).

Dots rate shimmer the same way, from one to five. Dollar signs rate the cost of the wood, from $ to $$$$$.

The two finishes

Natural wax finish

Wax (usually rubbed in over mineral oil) soaks into the wood instead of sitting on top. It looks and feels like natural wood, with a soft, low shine, and it’s easy to touch up at home. It gives less protection from spills and heat, needs a fresh coat now and then, and doesn’t slow down color changes from sunlight.

Semi-gloss lacquer finish

A clear coat that dries hard on the surface, with a moderate shine. It makes colors richer and patterns deeper, wipes clean, and stands up better to spills and daily use. Sunlight still reaches the wood, so color changes continue, just more slowly.

Why wood changes color

Light and air slowly change the color of all wood. Most woods get darker or warmer, and cherry changes the most. A few get slightly lighter, like walnut. Bright woods like padauk and purpleheart slowly turn brown. It happens behind window glass too, for the same reason we get a suntan at the beach.

Cherry darkens

New
After 1 year
5+ years, wax
Aged, warm lacquer

Black walnut gets lighter

New
5–10 years in light
New, lacquered
Aged, lacquered

Swatches are approximate, in a normally lit room.

Shimmer

Some woods seem to glow and move as you walk past them. This is called chatoyance. It’s a lot like the old holographic Pokémon cards that seemed to move when you tilted them back and forth. A lacquer finish shows shimmer at full strength; wax shows less of it.

  • None, or very little (for example, hard maple)
  • A nice natural sheen (for example, padauk)
  • A soft glow that moves in the light (for example, cherry)
  • Strong, eye-catching shimmer (for example, bubinga)
  • Spectacular: the shimmer is the star (for example, sapele)

Open grain

Some woods, like oak, ash and wenge, have tiny pores you can see and feel, which gives them more texture. Under lacquer, that texture can be left in for a natural feel or filled for a glass-smooth surface.

Safe for food?

Wood doesn’t come with a “food-grade” stamp. A common rule of thumb is that if a tree yields edible food, its wood is food-safe too. That’s why maple, the tree that gives us maple syrup, is one of the most common food-safe woods. Walnut is a close second.

  • Ideal for foodThe top choice for cutting boards and butcher blocks.
  • Good for foodGood for cutting and serving boards.
  • Serving pieces onlyTrays, bowls, handles and accent stripes, but not the main cutting surface.
  • Not for foodKeep it away from anything that touches food.

None of these woods are known to be poisonous, but the ones marked not for food can cause severe allergies. Cutting boards, bowls and other pieces that touch food get a food-safe oil-and-wax finish, not lacquer. Lacquer is a plastic-like resin that keeps hardening over time, and it shouldn’t come in contact with food.

Pairings

Each wood page suggests woods from this guide that look great with it, either as a strong contrast (light maple with dark walnut) or as a calm match (cherry with walnut). A few pages also list pairings to avoid, like red oak with white oak, whose pink and olive tones clash more as they age.

Weight and cost

Weight tells you how solid and heavy a piece will feel. Cost gives a rough idea of what each wood costs per board foot. A board foot is a piece of wood 12 inches square and 1 inch thick.

Take the cost ratings with a grain of salt. I based them on what I’ve paid for each wood in the past, and wood prices move with global supply and demand. I once bought hard maple cheap, came back a year later, and paid three times as much because that year’s maple harvest wasn’t as good.

Caring for your piece

Wax and oil-and-wax finishes: wipe clean with a damp cloth and dry right away. Keep wood out of the dishwasher and don’t leave it soaking. When the surface starts to look dry or dull, rub in a fresh coat of wax.

Semi-gloss lacquer: wipe with a soft, damp cloth. Use coasters and trivets for drinks and hot dishes.

Any finish: wood keeps changing color in the light. On a new piece, move lamps and vases now and then so they don’t leave a pale ghost spot. New cherry is the most sensitive.

Ready to pick a wood?

Compare all 21 woods side by side, or tell me about your project and I’ll suggest a few.